The Steeple - Shelterstone Crag

Once again i've probably left it a little too long to update this blog, but sat in Dundee on a dreich Friday I find myself with no excuses! Rest assured, I have actually been doing productive things on one of my final summer holidays off uni but have just thought that most of it wasn't really blog worthy, or I wasn't particularly inspired to put a blog up that only has a few mediocre pictures and a route description (unfortunately my photography is too poor to sustain a blog on its own!).

'how to ruin a picture with ropes from the belay' - pitch 1

I actually initially titled this post 'end of summer round-up' but swiftly changed it in order to convince myself that I still have some time to enjoy some warm summer rock! Since i've done a fair amount thats not featured in the blog thus far, I just made a quick slideshow (the wonders of iPhoto!) with some snaps of some summer trips with great routes and great people. Although I decided I should probably give my latest outing, a return trip to the Shelterstone, a bit more of an explanation than just a few pics in a mediocre slideshow.

With a cracking forecast for Tuesday, I desperately spent Monday afternoon trying to find someone to climb with. Luckily, Ewan whom i'd met a few weeks ago on UKC was free and keen for a trip up to the Shelterstone with an eye to do 'The Pin' on the Central Slabs. After perhaps a slightly too laid back start at 8:15 in Aviemore, we wandered down Coire Domhain to be greeted by the clanging of several groups already on Hell's Lum and 2 teams over on the Shelterstone. Upon closer inspection, the Pin and most of the central slabs (conditions update for any E7 hero's out there!) were pretty moist, so Steeple was in fact our only option with people already on adjacent routes. Unfortunately another repeat for Ewan (sorry!)

'Obligatory bridging shot' - because if I showed you the 10 other pictures of me not bridging you might figure out that I have no technique and just thug my way up routes.

Conditions on route were 'damp but climbable' with a particularly good lead from Ewan exiting the very wet corner at the end of P2! Unfortunately the crux P4 of the Steeple was 'damp and unclimbable' so our only option was to battle up the crux P4 of the Haystack instead, tough work in the conditions. From this point on the route was nice and dry and I got to enjoy the striking top corner, definitely a contender for best E2 pitch in Scotland. Ewan made short work of the surprisingly tricky final crack which landed us at a sunny belay on the top.

Finding out that the corner is quite long

Another quality day out on the Shelterstone, which I think has got to be my favourite crag in Scotland. Nothing beats the feeling of starting up the initial slabs with the Bastion towering 200 meters above you. The Steeple and The Needle are a real testament to just how good climbers like Smith et al were back in the 50's and 60's, who managed to put up these routes with the minimal of gear and a lot of bravery! (I'm sure they would be disgusted by my rack of cams, sticky rubber shoes and ropes that I can actually fall on!)

The Steeple corner in context (although this picture is actually from May)

The slideshow; (Watch it on Vimeo to get 720p)

https://vimeo.com/105339803

(Also worth noting a couple of the photo's aren't mine, the very good ones of Amethyst Pillar are Finlay's)

The Needle - Shelterstone Crag

It's been awhile since i've updated this blog, it's a bit harder to regularly update than I thought. I actually started a post a few weeks ago that rounded up all the trad cragging and sport routes I had done when not busy revising for exams but I decided just to delete it, as it wasn't really that interesting!

Anyhow, the weather since being released from exam slavery has been a bit disappointing. Tantalisingly sunny for a few hours followed by sporadic heavy showers (and even hailstones and lighting at one point!?!) - not ideal mountain route weather. Hence,  I've spent most of my time recently clipping bolts in the Angus sport quarries or ticking off local trad routes, the highlights being my first 7a (Going Through on Aggregate at Rob's Reed), ZigZag Double Direct and the Witch's Tooth at Glen Clova.

Springtime cragging - Stephen on Red Wall

The weather for Friday seemed good in the mountains and I was becoming a bit worried all the bolt clipping had made me lose my bottle, so after some persuading, I managed to convince Tim that the Shelterstone would be worth a shot on Friday.

We arrived at a very deserted and windy ski centre car park, both of our psych for some Shelterstone sending a bit low. We persevered though and nipped up Fiacaill ridge and down Coire Domhaim to see if the Shelterstone was dry. It looked dry enough and we set off up the crag classic 'The Needle (E1 5b)' in some pretty tortuous winds.

The mighty Shelterstone - after some interesting river crossings

 I briskly romped up the initial slab which left Tim to tackle the first 5b pitch. Tim dispatched this pitch in good style in some pretty horrible weather, which only added to already 'exciting' moves pretty high above 'just about adequate' gear.

Down jacket obligatory...

Where's the gear?

Trying not to think about said gear during the crux...

The weather cleared up nicely after the first 5b pitch, so I got to do my 5b pitch sans 40mph winds. The second 5b pitch was quite the opposite of the first, a big bulging steep flake crack with bomber gear the whole way up, a quality bit of climbing.

Savouring the exposure

Loch A'an

Pulling over the crux bulge

I took the next 5a pitch, the notorious 'crack for thin fingers' which was shorter and not as hard as I was expecting - maybe I just have small girly hands?!

Team trousers part 1

'crack for average sized fingers' just doesn't have the same ring to it...

After cruising upwards, we arrived at the bottom of the 'needle crack' 5a pitch which Tim got to lead. This was definitely the pitch that made the route, steep and intimidating but once you get stuck in to it you're rewarded with perfect gear and quality bridging all the way up on perfect granite.

Team trousers part 2

Stemming the dihedral ;)

Almost in the sun

The reward for Tim leading this pitch was that he had to 'climb' the final speleological pitch wearing a rucksack as he was seconding - probably not helped by having to retrieve a dropped walkie talkie at the bottom of the chimney (Sorry! :D)

Hmmm, glad I had a small breakfast

'Reborn by the mountain' or something..

We topped out into glorious sunshine at 5pm after starting at 11am I think? So about 6 hours for the route which I think is reasonable given the 'challenging' conditions lower down and the obligatory belay ledge sandwich stop. We nipped back round Sneachda to the car park, well chuffed with ourselves, having ticked such a classic route so early in the year!

Good route, good weather, good company - mountain cragging at it's best

On Saturday me, Robbie, Owen and Sophia all decided to hit Souter Head on the Aberdeen coast to make the most of the non-rainy weather. Robbie and Owen both had a 'retrospective good' time on the spicy 'South East Diedre' and Robbie cruised up the sparsely protected 'Seawall'. I decided to have a crack at the classic 'Mythical Wall' and grimaced my way up it, unsure if I should utilise the 'still tired from yesterday' excuse or 'Robbie's steel racking biner's are too heavy' excuse.


Sophia and Owen made an exciting high tide ascent of Jade Buttress whilst me and Robbie ticked off some of the other starred routes. A nice wee relaxing day out, although my energy and psych levels started to taper off pretty sharply towards the end!

North Gully - Lurcher's Crag

Me, Robbie and Owen had made plans to climb this weekend a few weeks ago, the forecast looked predictably similar to what the rest of this winter has offered, low clouds, gale force winds and heavy snow. After us all being prepared for a properly grim Scottish day out, we were fortunately surprised by mainly calm, sunny weather as we took in North Gully (III, 4) on Lurcher's crag.

Stunning morning in the Northern Corries

On the way round to the crag

We opted to park at the ski centre car park, and head up the ridge of Creag an Leth-choin before contouring round to Lurcher's crag. We arrived at the crag just shy of 10am after a knee crunching traverse of some steep heather. As the crag came into view it became obvious we weren't the only ones who thought Lurcher's would be a good idea, as several other parties were already on Central and North gully. With only one team on North gully and the potential to take a different fork at the top we opted to go for it.

Chillin' in the Lairig Ghru

Robbie led P1 and 4, Owen took the 2nd pitch and I took the 3rd. The first 3 pitches were mediocre, roughly 180m of climbing cruddy, hollow ice with about 6 bits of gear in 3 pitches and some rather inventive belays involving bulldog's, pegs and tied off stubby screws. I made the belay in a rather awkward place at the end of my pitch, so after a quick reshuffle ( sorry Robbie! ;) ) Robbie was lucky enough to get the best pitch of the day.

Robbie setting off on P4

Finally enjoying some good ice!

Tackling the ice umbrella

The 4th pitch more than made up for the cruddy lower pitches and Robbie climbed a nice line up the steepest section at about III/IV, 4. P4 was particularly interesting for me after breaking the tips off both my picks on the lower pitches, resulting in me having to swing like he-man to get reasonable placements. The angle eased back considerably after P4 so we just simul-climbed/soloed to the top whilst enjoying the lovely sunny conditions.

Robbie catchin' some rays

Sorting out the spaghetti ropes!

We topped out at around 1pm and had a very windy walk up to Creag an Leth-choin before enjoying some glissading down the sides of Lurcher's gully.

Owen stacking it like a pro'

Robbie with Coire an Lochain behind

Spindrift on the way down

Ethereal light on the way back to the car park

Sometimes the forecasts are wrong!

Quality day out

Overall I think we all had a great day out after expecting to not even make it out to the crag, I suppose sometimes it's worth just going for it even if the forecast isn't great. Sometimes it won't work out, but occasionally you can sneak in a quality day out in good company when the odds are stacked against you!

Poacher's Fall - Liathach

After what seemed like an eternity of winter climbing trips being cancelled due to crap weather, closed roads and every other problem imaginable, patience was finally rewarded and me and Tim had a cracking day out on Liathach climbing the uber classic 'Poacher's Fall' (V,5)

Where else would you rather be at 6am on a Saturday?

The forecast suggested the weather would be best in the morning, deteriorating into the afternoon, so we opted for an early start and left Inverness just before 4am, setting off from the Ling Hut car park at around 5:30am.

Poacher's Fall follows the right hand side of the prominent icefall

The early start paid off as we were the first to arrive below the route, we briskly geared up and then romped up the crag apron which was stable albeit with a few small patches of wind slab. After setting up a belay I tackled the first pitch, which was roughly 50m of steady ice with a steep move right, through an icey bulge just before reaching the belay.

Me climbing pitch 1 (Photo taken by Tim)

As Tim set off up pitch 2 the sun crept out over the northwest highland's and we were treated to some rather wonderful sunny weather. At this point a steady trail of people worked there way up the coire to enjoy some stunning ice conditions and we were joined at the belay by a trio from Aberdeen who provided some good chat.

Tim pulling over the bulge on P1

The Aberdonian trio enjoying the sun (Photo by Tim)

Scottish winter climbing - When it's good, it's really good...

...Except for the spindrift maybe

Unfortunately I didn't get many pictures of P2 as the weather clagged in a bit and there was a bit of rope untangling to be done mid-pitch, however it was a great lead by Tim on some pretty steep ice and probably the crux of the day. I got the pleasure of leading the 3rd pitch which was a steep icey chimney/runnel that looks suspiciously similar to pictures of the rogue pitch on Point Five Gully.

Me looking psyched for P3. (Photo by Tim)

Posing for pictures... (Photo by Tim)

Just about to pull over the final section of steep ice. (Photo by Tim)

The third pitch was superb with first time placements almost all the way to the top and **** star climbing. Unfortunately the weather took a bit of a turn for the worst and the last 10 meters or so had to be climbed in some relentless spindrift avalanches. All that was left now was 120 meters or so of easy ground to reach the ridge of Liathach. Tim lead one more small pitch to a rock band (and had an unfortunate encounter with a wire placement ...) and then we moved together for a further 100 meters to the top out. Needless to say by this point the weather was completely heinous with no vis and wild wind's so we got outta there pretty quick!

Ah Scottish winter climbing back to normal ...

We opted to descend down the south side of Liathach back to the road which is a bit of a knee destroying descent (A stark reminder than I need to purchase some walking poles if I want to still be able to walk when i'm 30!)

Destroying my knee's (Photo by Tim)

Just a short walk back to the car!

All in all an epic route that more than deserves it **** reputation and a good grade V to cut our teeth on. Definitely worth the 5 hour drive back to Dundee on Saturday night! Hopefully this signals the start of some better weather and more amazing ice conditions.

P.S - Many thanks to my uncle and auntie for letting us crash at their place in Inverness on Friday night.