North Gully - Lurcher's Crag

Me, Robbie and Owen had made plans to climb this weekend a few weeks ago, the forecast looked predictably similar to what the rest of this winter has offered, low clouds, gale force winds and heavy snow. After us all being prepared for a properly grim Scottish day out, we were fortunately surprised by mainly calm, sunny weather as we took in North Gully (III, 4) on Lurcher's crag.

Stunning morning in the Northern Corries

On the way round to the crag

We opted to park at the ski centre car park, and head up the ridge of Creag an Leth-choin before contouring round to Lurcher's crag. We arrived at the crag just shy of 10am after a knee crunching traverse of some steep heather. As the crag came into view it became obvious we weren't the only ones who thought Lurcher's would be a good idea, as several other parties were already on Central and North gully. With only one team on North gully and the potential to take a different fork at the top we opted to go for it.

Chillin' in the Lairig Ghru

Robbie led P1 and 4, Owen took the 2nd pitch and I took the 3rd. The first 3 pitches were mediocre, roughly 180m of climbing cruddy, hollow ice with about 6 bits of gear in 3 pitches and some rather inventive belays involving bulldog's, pegs and tied off stubby screws. I made the belay in a rather awkward place at the end of my pitch, so after a quick reshuffle ( sorry Robbie! ;) ) Robbie was lucky enough to get the best pitch of the day.

Robbie setting off on P4

Finally enjoying some good ice!

Tackling the ice umbrella

The 4th pitch more than made up for the cruddy lower pitches and Robbie climbed a nice line up the steepest section at about III/IV, 4. P4 was particularly interesting for me after breaking the tips off both my picks on the lower pitches, resulting in me having to swing like he-man to get reasonable placements. The angle eased back considerably after P4 so we just simul-climbed/soloed to the top whilst enjoying the lovely sunny conditions.

Robbie catchin' some rays

Sorting out the spaghetti ropes!

We topped out at around 1pm and had a very windy walk up to Creag an Leth-choin before enjoying some glissading down the sides of Lurcher's gully.

Owen stacking it like a pro'

Robbie with Coire an Lochain behind

Spindrift on the way down

Ethereal light on the way back to the car park

Sometimes the forecasts are wrong!

Quality day out

Overall I think we all had a great day out after expecting to not even make it out to the crag, I suppose sometimes it's worth just going for it even if the forecast isn't great. Sometimes it won't work out, but occasionally you can sneak in a quality day out in good company when the odds are stacked against you!